Trying to escape unseasonably hot weather in Paris (99 degrees!), we took a day-trip on a high-speed TGV train to the Northern coastal city of Dunkerque, France (AKA Dunkirk). Dutch for “Church in the Dunes,” Dunkerque is only about 6 miles from the Belgian border on the English Channel, in the French region Nord-Pas-de-Calais. Originating as a fishing village in the 10th Century, it has a rich history. Over the centuries, the area has been disputed by France, Spain, United Netherlands, and England.
We did a lot of walking today (23,000 steps before we got back on the train!), including the historic Old Town part of Dunkerque. The TI (Tourist Information) is located inside the Belfry. After getting a free map of the town, we took the elevator up to the 5th floor where the bells and carillon are located, and then up a VERY steep spiral stairway to the roof. I told Mark this may be my last tower – we have climbed narrow stairs and ladders in towers and church domes in Belgium, Italy, and France, and they just creep me out. I admit to being a little claustrophobic – the view is nice, but I’m not sure it’s worth it. Here is a video of the bells ringing in the the Saint-Eloi Belfry, a historic monument and a UNESCO World Heritage site, built during the 15th century.
Another highlight was a lunch of Moules Frites (Mussels and Fries) at, Édito, a restaurant on the water, near the Old Town. Moules Frites is one of the most popular dishes in France, and comes in many preparations, from a white wine broth to creamy and even curried.
Another location on Mark’s Magical History Tour, Dunkerque was the site of WWII’s Operation Dynamo. In May 1940, the British Expeditionary Force (aiding the French) was cut-off from the rest of the French army by the Germans. Winston Churchill ordered every sailing vessel (including civilian ships and boats) to sail across the English Channel and help evacuate the soldiers. 338,226 men (including 123,000 French soldiers) were evacuated using over 900 ships and boats. Churchill called Operation Dynamo “The miracle of Dunkirk,” because Hitler’s army could have decimated the allied troops who were surrounded and exposed on the long, flat beach. Although the operation was a success, Churchill reminded the nation: “…we must be very careful not to assign to this deliverance the attributes of a victory. Wars are not won by evacuations.”
What else can one do in Dunkerque, you ask? Well, there is one of the longest, widest stretches of white sand I’ve ever seen. We were here on a hot August weekend, when most of France is on vacation, and the shore was full of people of every shape, size and dress (or undress). Thousands of people (mostly French) and their families were enjoying the beach, including one older topless woman and another woman in a burkini. The shore is lined with a wide promenade for biking (even unicycling!), skating, walking and jogging. There are countless shops, restaurants and holiday hotels and apartments along the way. One of the highlights for us was watching a group of people who had joined the “Just Dance” instructors to learn a line-dance. I took this video – check-out the guy in the orange shorts, he’s really into it!
Before making our way back to the train station, we both were thinking of dessert. The place where we’d had lunch also served ice cream sundaes, and that was just the ticket! What better way to end a fun trip to the coast than with a treat?
