When I spent a month in France in 2014 on the COC Study Abroad program, our group took a weekend trip to the Northwest of France, the region called Brittany/Bretagne. We stayed in the historic, walled port city of Saint-Malo, and I was excited for Mark and I to visit together.
Originally, this city on the English Channel was known for its privateers (pirates with the King’s blessing). Its strategic location on the Channel made it valuable for trade and transportation between Great Britain and the Continent. Centuries later, it was occupied by the Germans in WWII, and sustained heavy bombing by the Allied Forces at the end of the war. Once peace had returned, the old city of Saint-Malo was carefully rebuilt to bring it back to its historic charm.
Currently, Saint-Malo is still a busy port. It is also a very popular tourist destination, with its old world charm, delicious regional food, and pristine beaches.
The tides here are amazing. The difference between low-tide and high-tide is best illustrated with these photos of the enormous sea-water pool at La Plage de Bon Secour. In 1937, a smart businessman, René Lesaunier, realized that Saint-Malo would have better tourist trade if people could easily access the sea regardless of the tide. He had the sea-water pool built so that folks could swim any time of the day.
Directly on the Channel, seafood is found in most restaurants. Mussels, oysters, lobster, shrimp, and crab, are all popular, as are the smaller sea snails (bulots) and many varieties of fresh fish. Other regional specialties are the buttery, sweet pastry, kouign-amann, apple cider (with alcohol) warm and cold, crêpes and galettes (savory crêpes, made with buckwheat flour).
Outside of the walled city of Saint-Malo, there is more to see. We walked along the port to Tour Solidor, at the mouth of the river Rance. It was built in the late 1300s by John V, Duke of Brittany (Jean IV in French), to control access to the river.
Also outside the city walls is the Memorial 39-45. We visited this site as part of Mark’s Magical History Tour – it’s a WWII German anti-aircraft defense blockhouse, and you can see the effects of the Allied bombing here firsthand.
Back in Saint-Malo’s old city walls (Intra-muros), there were some “everyday” sights to see. I’ve mentioned before that most French cities have at least one merry-go-round (manège), and Saint-Malo is no exception. I thought theirs was a particularly beautiful one.
Also, on Saturdays throughout France, you’ll often see weddings at the Hôtel de Ville (the headquarters of a city’s administration). French law requires that all marriages be officiated at the city’s Hôtel de Ville – a church service may take place at another time. It looks like the family and friends often accompany the bride and groom to the civil service, waiting outside to throw rice as the newlyweds exit the building. Just like in the U.S., you’ll see them being driven away in a decorated car, the party following in their vehicles, honking their horns in celebration.
What an amazing place! So happy you both got to see the beauty and the history.