Paris Street Art, March 2017

When our kids (Sam 23, and Molly 20) came to visit from the States, we knew we would take them to all of the popular Paris sites: Notre Dame, an afternoon cruise on the Seine, Montmartre/Sacré Cœur, the Eiffel Tower, and several museums. But what else could we do that might be a little “off the beaten path”? Wandering the city, I’ve seen quite a bit of street art (AKA graffiti). I’m not talking about the talentless tagging – simple initials or crudely-rendered scribbles with spray-paint. There is real art on the walls of this (and many other) cities. Street Art Paris gives an insightful, interesting walking tour that was a highlight of Sam and Molly’s visit for all four of us. We learned a lot about street art and graffiti culture on Virginie’s tour of the working-class 11th  and 20th Arrondissements (Oberkampf and Belleville), and had fun along the way. www.streetartparis.fr

Some would argue that unauthorized, illegal marking of walls in any form is not art, but vandalism. Officially, the city agrees. Anyone caught by the Paris police marking walls with paint – or even removable chalk – is subject to a minimum fine of €3,750. The fine increases if the building’s owner wants to press charges. Police generally do not turn and look the other way – artists are often caught and charged with the crime. For this reason, most of the street art performed in Paris takes place in the dark of night. Can you imagine creating this piece in the dark, at the top of a very tall building, hanging onto a ladder with one hand while stretching-out to paint with another?

Some artists risk life and limb (in addition to fines and jail time).

Often, the art reflects the artist’s feelings regarding current political and social issues. Shepard Fairey is known worldwide for his original painting of Obama, and his André The Giant pieces, small and large, that allude to Big Brother can be seen everywhere from stickers on light poles to large wall stencils. Now a full-time artist, his is work is displayed in The Smithsonian, The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Los Angeles Museum of Modern Art, among others.

Shepard Fairey’s André The Giant/Big Brother is Watching
Probably one of the most famous pieces created by street artist, Shepard Fairey
I couldn’t make-out the name of this artist, but his/her feelings are pretty clear.

Both single artists and groups (often with a supportive crew and lookouts) go to great lengths to create their masterpieces. Some are better artists than others, of course, and some take greater risks, like climbing ladders on rooftops and hanging out windows or on the side of a building. There are those who are quite famous (Banksy and Shepard Ferrie come to mind), who have traveled the world to place their works in multiple countries. One young Parisian artist, who went by the pseudonym Zoo Project, decided to create his art in America. He unfortunately chose Detroit as his canvas, and was shot and killed by gang members who knew nothing of his fame and ability.

ZOO PROJECT, murdered by gang members in Detroit while creating his art.

There is a code of conduct among artists. While it isn’t always respected, it is generally agreed that one never paints over someone else’s work, unless their talent is at the same level or greater. If they decide to paint over another artist, they must completely cover the previous work before beginning their own. Everyone knows that the art is meant to be temporary, so nothing is off-limits, if the next person has more talent. It is extremely disrespectful to tag another artist’s work.

Virginie told us that there is an easy way to identify each piece of art:

  • The artist will have a pseudonym with (usually) 4 or 5 letters, with which he/she will tag the art when finished.
  • The artist will often have one or more crews identified on the work, and each crew is usually ID’d with three letters.
  • The art is usually dated (and if you see something that has been there quite a while, it is probably because the artist is widely-respected).
HNRX is food-obsessed – most of his paintings are of food in some way or another.

One highly-secretive artist who goes by the pseudonym INVADER is a graduate of Paris’ School of Fine Arts (École des Beaux-Arts). He uses ceramic tiles to create pixel-like characters (inspired by the early video game, Space Invaders) that can be found in more than 60 cities throughout 30 countries. He’s placed over 1,000 pieces worldwide, and you can even download a free app to your smartphone, “Flash Invaders,” to capture images and score points for each one you see.

INVADER

Artists have what they call a Black Book, a sketch book with their plans for future art. These are the artist’s most guarded possession, as it not only has their creative ideas, but can be used against them if the police get ahold of it. We watched one talented, well-known artist, POX, working on a street in Belleville who uses his smartphone as a blueprint – leaving his black book in a safe location elsewhere.

POX working

POX was working during the day on this street, as it is generally considered acceptable (even by the police) to paint here. Our guide, who is friends with POX, was so excited to be able to introduce us and show us his work in action. Like a lot of these folks, he wears a respirator and usually gloves, to protect his health (although he still smokes cigarettes, LOL).

An older piece of POX’s. It’s been here quite a while, and nobody has painted over it — a sign of respect for his talent.

It is a heavily male-dominated field, but there are a few women who have gained notoriety and respect for their craft, such as KASHINK (self-proclaimed artist, activist and performer). Her work is known for its fat faces with four eyes, a uni-brow, and for being very hairy. She is well-respected in the street art culture, but note the disrespectful tagging of her work here:

KASHINK Note the title, Girls Just Wanna Have Fun-damental Rights.

It is important to note that most street artists have full-time jobs in another field. They are creating art on their own time, at their own cost, receiving no compensation. However, some of the more talented artist become so popular that they’re recognized in the legitimate art world, and those can become professionals, charging sometimes thousands for a single canvas. Alex HOPARE, one of the nine artists (8 men, 1 woman) on Belleville’s Dream Wall (which was a commissioned, legitimate, piece) is one of those.

HOPARE: His work always features women, lots of fine lines and energy – very fine work with just spray paint (no stencils). Now earning his living with his art, a canvas can fetch €20,000.

The city of Paris recognizes the art with a project called “Le Mur” (the wall). This one large wall, located at 107 Rue Oberkampf in the 11th Arrondissement, is commissioned to non-professional street artists who have applied for the honor to be chosen to paint here. The city pays €750 to a chosen artist, every 1st and 3rd Saturday per month, to cover the old art and paint their own masterpiece. The current wall, by CIX MUGRE of Mexico, is number 230 in this series. I asked how these artists are willing to come-out publicly with their art, since it is illegal and would have them publicly acknowledge their work. Virginie explained that some artists work with their faces masked, to protect their identity, while others may be older and feel that it is time to enter the legitimate art world (like CIX MUGRE). For more information: http://www.lemur.fr

Le Mur CIX MUGRE, Virginie pointed-out the homage to the Three Monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil and speak no evil), as well as the yin-yang in each circular face.

Another Friend From Home!! A Visit With Bonnie: 12-20 February, 2017

February 12 (19,800 steps)

Bonnie’s flight arrived mid-morning at Aeroport CDG, so after picking her up, we went back to the apartment in Vincennes to drop-off her luggage and freshen-up (about an hour on two trains from point A to point B). Even after the long flight, Bonnie was ready to start sight-seeing. We had a nice lunch at Le Drapeau in Vincennes and then took the Métro into Paris. One of the best things about living in Vincennes, is that it is on the BEST line (#1) for a quick ride into Paris, with stops in some of the best tourist destinations. In twenty minutes, we were gazing at the Louvre’s ancient building with its modern glass pyramid in the courtyard.

Bonnie and I at the Louvre Pyramid

Having just arrived, it was a good day to stay out in the fresh air (to stay awake), so we’d visit museums another day. Next stop: the one-hour boat tour on the Seine. Having done this tour several times (Vedettes du Pont Neuf), we know it’s an awesome way to sit and glide past some of the best of Paris.

View of the Eiffel Tower on the Seine Cruise

As we walked back to the Métro from the boat, we took a detour into one of the most famous cathedrals in the world, the French-Gothic Notre Dame. The first structure was begun in the mid-1100s, and it was expanded over the next two-hundred years to be completed in 1345. I am constantly amazed to be here, walking on floors that have held worshippers for over 800 years! The architectural detail, stained glass, and grand scale of the building, in addition to its history, are simply awe-inspiring.

Inside Notre Dame

February 13 (15,422 steps)

Monday morning offered us beautiful, clear weather, so we jumped at the chance to visit the Eiffel Tower. We wanted to go to the summit, and with all of the foggy, overcast weeks we’d had here, we needed to take advantage of the sun! It seemed that everyone else had the same idea, so there was quite a bit of standing in line (getting through the first security checkpoint, the ticket line, secondary security, and the line to the elevator), but it is winter – I’ve seen much worse! The Eiffel Tower (built for the 1889 World’s Fair) has three levels, all of which can be accessed by three stages of elevators (or if you’re really into stairs, you can save some dough and climb the first two levels, taking a lift to the final stage). The first two levels are quite large, and have gift shops, snack bars and even a ritzy restaurant (which requires reservations well in advance). The summit is 906 feet above the ground, which affords you an amazing, often windy view of the city. At the top, you can buy a glass of champagne, take a peek into Gustav Eiffel’s small apartment, or even use the restroom!

The view from the top of the Eiffel Tower
Champagne bar at the top of the Eiffel Tower

After a quick snack on the Tower, we opted for another stunning view of Paris, at the upscale department store, Printemps (in the 9th Arrondissement). On the 9th floor of the Beauty and Home store, there is a cafeteria-style restaurant with an outdoor rooftop terrace. This spot, in the center of the Right Bank of Paris, has a more intimate view of the city. You’re just above the rooftops, where you see the detail of the Haussmann buildings, busy streets, and have a 360-degree view of almost every monument in Paris, including Eiffel Tower, Grand Palais, Arc de Triomphe, Sacré Cœur, and Opéra Garnier. (note: We were told that this terrace would soon be closed for rennovations for the next two years.)

View from the Printemps Terrace

As the sunset began to fade, we had one more view to take-in before heading back to the apartment. Every night after sunset, the Eiffel Tower is illuminated. Beautiful as that is, it is truly spectacular at the top of the hour when the bulbs flicker on-and-off, making the tower sparkle. It never gets old, seeing the light show! Here’s a quick clip I posted to YouTube. Just click this link:

https://youtu.be/TueoReEYXK0

February 14 (24,592 steps)

Mark had an appointment in Paris this morning, and was able to join us for breakfast, so the three of us started our Valentine’s Day in the sweetest way: a breakfast of café au lait and pastries from Blé Sucré (in the 12th Arrondissement).

Just a sample of the delights at Blé Sucré

Tummies full, Mark headed to work, and Bonnie and I took the Métro to Opéra Garnier (built 1861-1875) for a self-guided tour. Probably the most famous opera house in the world, the building was the inspiration for the setting of Phantom of the Opera. It has just under 2,000 seats (red-velvet, of course), and its Second Empire and Beaux-Arts design is over-the-top. The staircase and halls are decorated with sculptures, paintings, a full library of opera music, set designs in miniature and a handful of costumes from some of the performances which have taken place here.

Opéra mirror selfie

The ceiling of Opéra Garnier, painted by Marc Chagall

The balance of the day included lunch under the glass-domed cupola at Printemps Brasserie, a walk through the tree-lined Parc Monceau, and a quick view of the outdoor sculpture/fountain near Centre Pompidou, before taking the Métro back to the apartment for a pre-dinner rest. Arriving at the apartment, we were so surprised to see that Mark had been there during his lunch, and had left us both flowers, Valentine’s treats from the patisserie, and a little gift!  That evening, we met in Paris for dinner with Mark at our favorite falafel place,  L’as du Fallafel, in Le Marais.

Spring has sprung at Parc Monceau
Fountain and art near Centre Pompidou
Dinner at L’As du Fallafel

February 15 (17,682 steps)

This was a museum day, with Impressionism being foremost on our minds, as we visited L’Orangerie in the morning, followed by lunch and more art at Musée d’Orsay in the afternoon. These are my two favorite art museums in Paris, and I’ll never get tired of looking at their collections. I see something new every time I visit.

Monet, at L’Orangerie
Rhino in the Musée d’Orsay courtyard
Lunch at Musée d’Orsay’s Café Campana

February 16 (18,956 steps)

Today was a trip out to the Château de Versailles, the royal palace made most grand by King Louis XIV (AKA The Sun King), and final home to his grandson, King Louis XVI and wife Marie Antoinette. I’d been here a few times, and was excited to share it with Bonnie. We had enough time (and the weather cooperated nicely) to see the main Château, plus Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon, her Hameau (Hamlett).

Tip: when visiting Versailles, pay extra (€2 currently) to visit all buildings on the grounds, AND pay for the petit train (€7 to take you out and back) to the sites. The Grand and Petit Trianon (the smaller châteaux used to “get away from it all” by King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette), as well as Marie’s Hameau, are just too far to walk (it takes too much time out of the day/visit).

The ceiling in the Versailles Hall of Mirrors
Leto’s Fountain at Versailles, inspired by The Metamorphoses, by Ovide
Exterior of Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon, a tiny palace that was a “home away from home”
Inside the Petit Trianon. You can see it is much smaller and less grand than the Château.
Marie Antoinette’s Hameau, a small country village (complete with farm animals) that was her playground and getaway from royal life.

February 17 (18,293 steps)

The Louvre was originally built in the 12th century as a fortress (some of its structure can be viewed from inside the museum). It was expanded over the centuries to become the enormous palace, which today is the world’s 2nd most visited museum (after one in China). It has been a museum since 1793, and has a collection of over 35,000 objects (thanks, Wikipedia!). We spent the morning perusing a small portion of the Louvre, and enjoyed a quick lunch at the Le Café Mollien, which is by the stairs at the end the Louvre’s French Paintings wing and has gorgeous views out to the garden/pyramide.

Tip: Le Café Mollien is kind of out of the way, unlike many of the other Louvre eateries. We had no trouble finding a table, and even though the food (sandwiches, desserts, etc., was already prepared, it was quite good).

Mona Lisa, at the Louvre
Venus de Milo, Louvre

After lunch, Bonnie and I walked over to Sainte-Chapelle (on Ile de la Cité, just down the street from Notre Dame). The best time to see this chapel, which is basically a framework for stunning stained-glass, is the daytime. Sunshine streaming through the stained-glass will take your breath away – I guarantee!

The awe-inspiring stained glass in Sainte-Chapelle

Our final destination for the day was a meetup with my friend, Melissa, at a Starbucks on the Champs-Élysées. We took the métro to the neighborhood which is famous for its upscale (and some not-so-upscale) shopping, as well as its constant crowds of tourists. I wanted Bonnie and Melissa to meet, as she has become a dear friend since we met shortly after our arrival here in France. Melissa is from Florida, and her husband, Olivier, is French. They both enjoy board games, and we met at a board game night in a café in Paris! It was fun for the two to get to know each other over coffee, and Melissa offered to be our photographer at the Arc de Triomphe, before we all called it a night.

 

Coffee with my oldest and newest friends!
Bonnie and I at Arc de Triomphe

February 18 (22,497 steps)

Mark had to work today (even though it is Saturday), so Bonnie and I headed to one of the places she told ME about, Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen (Paris Flea Market) north of the city at Saint-Ouen. Melissa and Olivier joined us on our field-trip, and it was fascinating to wander among everything from fine French antiques to furniture, knick knacks, and parts of old buildings (faucets, window frames, zinc bartops, etc.). Bonnie found a pretty little oil painting, which she bought from the artist, as well as a cute yellow teapot.

At the flea market (Marché des Puces) in Saint-Ouen

After the flea market, Bonnie and I took the métro to Montmartre and avoided the extra stairs with a funicular (only one métro ticket) up to visit La Basilique du Sacré Cœur, and get yet another gorgeous view of Paris.  Rounding-out our day, we met Mark in Vincennes, for dinner at our favorite Thai restaurant, Tamarin.

Sacré Cœur

February 19 (19,983 steps)

Today was Sunday, so Mark could join-in the fun! We started-off with the American-style diner, Breakfast in America, where we gorged ourselves on eggs, bacon, pancakes and bottomless cups of legit, American coffee.

Breakfast In America — a true American diner, with two locations in the heart of Paris

Post-brunch, we walked around the Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement), which includes the lovely Jardin du Luxembourg, La Sorbonne, and Saint-Sulpice cathedral.

Medici fountain at Luxembourg Garden
Ponies at Luxembourg Gardens

For an additional treat, we headed back to the 1st Arrondissement for Angelina’s famous chocolat chaud  and pastries (more than just hot cocoa – this stuff is thick and rich: think drinking chocolate!). I don’t remember, but if memory serves, we elected to skip dinner this night!

Chocolat chaud (hot cocoa) at Angelina’s

February 20 (9,762 steps)

As they say, “All good things must end.” Bonnie’s visit was up, and this morning was a trip back to the airport. What a fun time we had, having Bonnie visit! Who knew, back when we met at Houston Middle School, in Acampo, CA, that 39 years later, we would wander the streets of Paris together?

Bonnie (R) and I (L) in the Lodi High School Honor Band (1983)

Au revior, Aéroport Charles de Gaulle