Nature (and History) Walks on the Edge of Paris, April 2017

Everyone planning a trip to Paris knows about the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, the river Seine, Notre Dame, The Louvre. . . there is so much to do here, and never enough time for the person on vacation. Living here has given us the opportunity to explore other sides of this magnificent city, and I’d love to share some of my favorites with you.

In previous blog posts, I’ve mentioned our Meetup Dog Walks in the Bois (Woods) de Vincennes, just East of Paris proper. I’ve highlighted my favorite city parks: the lovely, stately, neighborhood Parc Monceau and bustling Jardin du Luxembourg, enjoyed by tourists and locals alike. In the past two weeks, a friend from the knitting group at the American Church in Paris has offered to guide our group in two Springtime-perfect walks. We’ve explored the Parc de Sceaux (pronounced “so”) just south of Paris, and the Parc de Saint-Cloud, to the west.

Ladies from the American Church in Paris’ Knitting Group, walking in le Parc de Sceaux

Parc de Sceaux

Just about 20 minutes south of central Paris via regional train RER B, Parc de Sceaux seems lightyears away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. Although the Château de Sceaux was destroyed during the French Revolution, it has been rebuilt (1850s) and is quite picturesque.

Le Château de Sceaux

The real stand-out here, are 200 acres of gardens, designed by André Le Nôtre. Le Nôtre was the French landscape architect to King Louis XIV, probably most famous for his design of the gardens at the Château de Versailles. Mark and I have also enjoyed his magnificent gardens at the Châteaux Fontainebleu, Saint-Germain, and Chantilly. One can also see his influence in the design of Paris’ Tuileries and the Champs-Élysées.

 

Le Grand Canal, Sceaux

The Parc de Sceaux is a year-round beauty, but in the Spring, its groves of cherry trees (one pink, one white) are drop-dead-gorgeous. We brought a picnic, spread our blankets on the grass under a cherry tree popping with pink pom-pom blossoms, and enjoyed the fresh air.

 

Parc de Saint-Cloud

Parc de Saint-Cloud is located just west of the Paris Periphérique (the highway that encircles the city). We reached it by going to the end of Métro Line 10 (stop: Boulogne Pont de Saint-Cloud), where we disembarked and walked a short distance over le Pont de Saint-Cloud, across the Seine, and into the park.

La Grande Cascade at Saint-Cloud

One of France’s designated Remarkable Gardens, the enormous parc spans over 1,100 acres which include French gardens (also designed by Le Nôtre), an English garden, Marie Antoinette’s rose garden, and woods. It was once the location of the Château de Saint-Cloud, which was a royal residence from the 16th Century until its destruction during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870.  Rulers and their families, from Louis XIV (AKA “The Sun King”) to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, and the Napoleons, both I and III lived here.

English garden
Chestnut trees in the woods at le Parc de Saint-Cloud

I can’t choose my favorite feature of the parc, but one that stands-out is certainly the panoramic view of Paris from the elevated clearing near where the château once stood, called “La Lanterne.”

We knit/crochet, and we walk!

 

 

A Weekend in Strasbourg, France: 6-9 January, 2017

We had originally planned to visit Strasbourg during December, when it hosts one of the oldest Christmas Markets in Europe (first held in 1570). Unfortunately, I got sick the night before, and we had to reschedule our trip. There are plenty of Christmas Markets in Europe, so we did get to experience them in other cities, including the enormous Paris market along the Champs-Élysées. Our January visit to Strasbourg was fun – but boy, was it COLD! The temperature was below freezing the entire time we were there, plus it snowed. I would love to re-visit the city in warmer temperatures, to see the lovely buildings when their flower boxes are blooming.

First, a little background info: Strasbourg, France is located in the Alsace Region near the German border.  It has a rich history, punctuated over the centuries by periods of rule alternating between France and Germany. It is the official seat of the European Parliament, and home to France’s 2nd largest university, the University of Strasbourg (founded in 1538).

Le Grand Île and Petite France

Église Saint-Paul

Built in the 1890s, the Gothic Revival Église Réformée Saint-Paul is a major landmark in Strasbourg. Lutheran members of the Imperial German Garrison who were stationed in Strasbourg attended this church.

A view of the 13th Century towers, canals, and old town from atop the covered footbridge

The historic city center, Le Grand Île, is the only city center that has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its half-timbered buildings and towering Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Strasbourg, the island, created by a canal fed by the Rhine, is stunning.

Mark, in front of Strasbourg’s Cathédrale de Notre Dame

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is a fine example of late Gothic architecture. There have been religious buildings on this site since Roman times, but this cathedral was built between 1176 – 1439. Writer Victor Hugo described it as “a gigantic and delicate marvel.” Built of sandstone from the Vosges mountains, it has a distinct pink color. Click this link to see and hear the cathedral’s bells ring:

https://youtu.be/C1yxZNVPme4

Grand Île with Notre Dame

Quartier Allemand

The Quartier Allemand (German District) houses the Place de la République and the elegant, domed Palais du Rhin, a former German Imperial palace.

Palais du Rhin, an example of 19th Century Prussian architecture

Many times over the centuries, Germany and France have fought each other to rule the Alsace area which includes Strasbourg. This poignant statue pays homage to the loss of lives on both sides, often from the same family. Here, a mother grieves over two lost sons – one who fought for Germany and one for France.

Statue on the Place de la République, a mother grieving over her two sons who died in war (one German, one French)

Quartier Européen

The seat of the European Parliament is located in a more modern part of the city, called the Quartier Européen. Some parliamentary meetings are also held in Brussels, Belgium and Luxemboug City, but most meetings (12 sessions/year) are held here, and voting must take place in Strasbourg. We took the tram out to see this part of town, a short distance from the old city center.

Me, in front of the EU Council
Mark and I, in front of the EU Parliament

We had fun watching the kids sledding by the European Parliament! Click this link to watch, too:

https://youtu.be/gHmBs-9FnH4