A Weekend of Monet: Musée de l’Orangerie, Giverny, and Rouen

“The richness I achieve comes from nature, the source of my inspiration.” ~ Claude Monet (1840-1926), founder of Impressionist painting

On our first Saturday in Paris, we visited Musée de l’Orangerie, where many of Monet’s works are displayed, including eight large panels of Nymphéas (Water Lilies). I have loved Monet’s art ever since I was introduced to it in high school, and it is always a thrill to be in the presence of his work. The Nymphéas in l’Orangerie are displayed in two large, oval rooms, which were designed to Monet’s specifications to have direct, diffused light. As the daylight changes in the rooms, the paint on the canvas shifts and different colors come alive.

Standing in front of one of Monet's Nymphéas at Musée de l'Orangerie, Paris
Standing in front of one of Monet’s Nymphéas at Musée de l’Orangerie, Paris. 20 August 2016

Other fun stuff today: An amazing view of the city from the 6th floor rooftop deck of the department store, Printemps (which is free, easy, and AMAZING! And did I say FREE?!) Tip: It will look like you are entering a deli/cafeteria, but you don’t have to eat there — just go on through to the rooftop deck!

View from Printemps' 6th Floor rooftop. 20 August 2016
View from Printemps’ 6th Floor rooftop. 20 August 2016

While we were there, we had lunch at the Tea Room in Printemps, under the stained-glass cupola. The atmosphere is quite nice, the prices aren’t too high, and the food is quite good.  On Saturday evening, we took a one-hour boat tour on the Seine, which goes through the heart of Paris. The Vedettes du Pont Neuf is located on/under the Pont Neuf (follow the sign to go down the stairs, where you can purchase a ticket, get a drink/snack, and board the boat. I’d recommend only going when the weather is nice enough to sit on the top of the boat, so you can get an unobstructed view.  http://vedettesdupontneuf.com/cruises/

“I perhaps owe having become a painter to flowers.”~Claude Monet

Monet's garden and pond at Giverny
Monet’s garden and pond at Giverny

On Sunday, we took the train out of Paris for a day-trip to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny, where he lived (1883 – 1926). http://giverny.org/gardens/fcm/visitgb.htm

If you love flowers, gardening, art, or any combination, this is the place to visit! The flowers were still at their peak, and we got lucky that the weather was overcast. In fact, while we had lunch on the terrace of a nearby hotel/restaurant, the rain started to come down, forcing us to take cover while it blew past. After our visit in Giverny, it was back on the train to finish our day in Rouen.

Over the centuries, Roman, Vikings, and English settled here, and Rouen has been the capital of the Normandy region of France since the 10th Century. 19 year-old Joan of Arc was tried as a heretic and burned at the stake here in 1431 (later to be “forgiven” and then canonized as a Catholic saint in 1920). The history of this city is so rich, and there is no way I can get it all in here (maybe you’re thankful for that mercy, but if you’re interested, look it up!).

The cathedral in Rouen was painted numerous times by Claude Monet to capture it in different light. When I was here with College of the Canyons in 2014, the front of the cathedral was under restoration, and behind scaffolding. Today, it is restored, as Monet would have seen it.

Rouen's Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral
Rouen’s Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral

Finally, for those of you who need a little “modern history,” let’s bring it up to WWII. During the second World War, the Palais de Justice was heavily damaged by our American B-17s, as we softened-up Nazi-occupied France for the D-Day invasion that would happen six weeks later (45% of the city was destroyed by bombing and fire during WWII). You can see the damage on the Palais still today.

Mark at Palais de Justice, Rouen. You can see the damage done during WWII.
Mark at Palais de Justice, Rouen. You can see the damage done during WWII.

It was a weekend with great weather, easy trains, and a lot of walking. I’ve tried my best to hit the highlights, and to get the history right. If you have any questions or suggestions, please feel free to leave a comment!

Navigating (hopefully) French Bureaucracy

 

Here's to hoping we do everything by the book!
Here’s to hoping we do everything by the book!

We are learning (as fast as we can) all of the rules and regulations pertaining to living and working in France. Having never done this before, we were counting on JPL to help us figure this stuff out. They have been very helpful, but while they have plenty of employees who travel for work, and many of those have had long-term assignments where they’ve lived in other states, living abroad is not common.  The French Consulate required paperwork and appointments to process our long-term visa, and in June, the first available appointments were August 1 and 3. After the uncertainty of waiting, rescheduling our original flights, and waiting some more, the visas arrived just in time.

A little more bureaucracy – upon arrival in France, we have to send additional paperwork to the préfecture of the area in which we’ll live. They will schedule an appointment where we may or may not be subject to a medical exam and/or interview, in order to be granted a temporary residence card. Oh, and by the way, be sure to bring another copy of your birth certificate TRANSLATED INTO FRENCH. Okay, I could do this myself, but they weren’t clear: is this supposed to be something official, of just a DIY project? Or maybe it is the other form we’re supposed to bring (which asks questions about your parents, in French). I think I’ll bring the form and a DIY, and hope for the best. Also, the form needs to state your address in France, including proof of rental, a utility bill or landline in your name – and we will have none of that. Hmmmm. We are not going to be in Paris long enough for a real apartment rental, so we are planning on first staying in a hotel, and then once we choose the area we prefer, get one (or more) Air BnB places for the months we will be there. As two first-born, rule-followers, this is keeping us up at night. Well, it vexes us both, but Mark has no problem sleeping – that’s just me. Anyway, I know: First World Problems!

A co-worker of Mark’s, who has been back and forth (so not living there) to France, has assured Mark that we shouldn’t worry about any of this. “They want our money!” Here’s hoping he is right!!

 

A little bit about what we’re doing. . .

(Disclaimer: I am new to blogging on WordPress, so please bear with me as I learn how to design and manage this blog!)

Exactly two months ago, a coworker asked Mark if he’d be interested in working in France for about a year. A quick phone call to me, and it took us about five minutes to decide that this was an opportunity we just couldn’t turn down.

That decision set a lot of gears into motion. In just eight weeks, we needed to get the house ready for our departure, make sure we understood the policies and benefits of JPL work and travel for both Mark and myself, secure appointments with the French consulate in L.A. (not easy, by the way) to obtain work/spouse Long Term Visas, get our medical, dental, and optometry check-ups, arrange for our sweet dog, Amy, to live with Mark’s parents, understand the best way to store our cars (which included a thorough cleaning and rearrangement of the garage (thanks to Molly for her help!), donate some big stuff that had been taking-up a lot of space, and sell Mark’s old convertible.

Oh, and in addition to that, Mark had two trips out to France for work, we attended a family wedding in Seattle, and took Sam on a graduation-celebration trip to our old stomping grounds of Austin, TX (where Mark went to grad school just after we were married).

AND WE GOT IT ALL DONE! WHEW!

We lucked-out and have a wonderful person who will house-sit. The kids are both set for the year, with Molly starting her 3rd year at Western and Sam working on three internships in Davis. And plans are in the works for both of them to visit us (probably during Molly’s Spring Break).

So, here we are headed to France for almost a year! Well, we are actually coming back home at the end of the month. For an Alaska cruise that we had booked months ago. I know, right?!

This August trip to France is kind of a scouting mission for me, while Mark will be working. The company Mark will be working with primarily, IPGP, is in a suburb just southeast of Paris. Our hotel reservations are right in the heart of Paris. The Hilton Opéra, where Mark has stayed on previous work trips, is close to the Métro and RER station, so it is an easy commute out of the city. We plan to stay there when we return in September as well, until we find an Air BnB apartment. We’re not sure if we want to rent a place right in Paris, or in Saint-Maur des Fosées.

UT Austin Screenshot
Mark, Sam, and I at UT Austin, July 2016
Leaving our Welsh Terrier, Amy, is the hardest thing to do.
Leaving our Welsh Terrier, Amy, is the hardest thing to do.
Our daughter, Molly, was on a Study Abroad program through Western Washington University this summer in Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Slovenia. July 2016
Our daughter, Molly, was on a Study Abroad program with Western Washington University this summer in Czech Republic, Austria, Slovakia and Slovenia. July 2016
Sam, Mark, and I in Seattle for a family wedding. July 2016
Sam, Mark, and I in Seattle for a family wedding. July 2016