Expat Experience – A Broad Abroad

Berlin, Germany: February, 2017

I was so excited to visit Berlin! From the time I was in Mr. Lindberger’s German I class at Lodi High School (1981), I’d been interested in the city. Another of our high school German teachers, Frau Duberry, would take a group of students on a study abroad trip to Germany every few years. I wasn’t able to go, but it was so fascinating to hear Frau Duberry and Herr Lindberger describe Berlin’s division into two very different cities after WWII by the Berlin Wall.

Following the partition of Berlin after WWII, East Germany was facing massive defection and emigration to the West. To prevent further loss of its citizens, the Soviets built the wall around West Berlin in 1961, and Berliners were separated from family and friends overnight. Once the barriers had been erected, very few East Berliners were able to escape to the West. Though it was possible for Westerners to visit the eastern part of the city, it was quite difficult to pass through checkpoints.

This is the text from a museum display, which I found useful to understand how The Berlin Wall came to be:

“After the war (WWII), the SED, the ruling party, with the help of the Soviet occupying forces, began establishing a dictatorship, first in the Soviet zone of occupation and as of 1949 in the GDR (East Germany). Large parts of the East German population, however, did not agree with the new political and economic system. In contrast, the Federal Republic (West Germany) and West Berlin, with their offer of freedom, prosperity and modernity, were very appealing. Consequently, a mass migration to the West began in the late forties that by the fifties had reached dramatic proportions. By August 1961 the GDR had lost a sixth of its population.

By 1952 the SED had almost completely closed off its border to the Federal Republic to GDR citizens. Travel to the western part of Germany required approval. Moving to the West without permission was considered an illegal “flight from the republic” and prosecuted by law. When the fortifications at the inner-German border were expanded, it became increasingly dangerous to flee directly to West Germany. Hence many people went across the open sector borders into West Berlin.

On August 13, 1961, the SED began erecting barbed wire and walls to seal off the border all around West Berlin. It was hoped that this would end the growing mass migration to the West once and for all. The SED also wanted to stabilize its power over the people in the GDR and to demonstrate sovereignty to the world. But the barbed wire and walls were unable to completely stop the escape attempts. Therefore, the border barriers in Berlin were continually expanded and reinforced.”

After 28 years of oppression, The Iron Curtain began to weaken during the Soviet era of Gorbachev and glasnost. Shortly after President Regan beseeched “Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall…”, the wall did come down peacefully – almost as quickly as it went up, on November 9, 1989.

Plaque on the spot near where American President Ronald Reagan made his famous “Tear down this Wall” speech

Third Reich/East Berlin Walking Tour with Original Berlin Walks

We experienced another great, informative walking tour during our weekend in Berlin. Our guide, Matti, who was raised in Berlin, was so interesting and a font of knowledge on the city’s history. His parents were East Berliners who were born before The Wall was erected. Trapped in East Berlin as young adults, they married and started their family in the shadow of The Wall, and rejoiced when it fell.

In East Berlin, it was not allowed to be called “The Wall.” Instead, it was called the “Anti-Fascist Protective Barrier” – marketing spin to make it sound like it was keeping fascists out, rather than imprisoning its own citizens. The Wall is still preserved in some stretches, and is a constant reminder to what people can do to others in the name of power.

We walked past one area where the Berlin Wall has been painted and tagged by artists (and vandals). Most of the art is the individual artist’s expression supporting the ideals of freedom, peace, free-speech, and civil rights.

Art and graffiti on what’s left of the Berlin Wall

Dmitri Vrubel’s 1990 May God Help Me Survive This Deadly Love (AKA Fraternal Kiss). This depicts the actual kiss between Leonid Brezhnev and Erich Honeker in 1979, celebrating 30 years since the foundation of the German Democratic Republic (East Germany)

Birgit Kinder’s “Test the Rest” painting of the Trabant car, crashing through the Berlin Wall. Called a Trabi, it was the standard car available to East Berlin residents (if they were lucky enough to afford a car at all).

The spot where the Berlin Wall first came down, November 9, 1989

There is another part of The Wall which has been preserved much as it was during the Cold War. Here, you can see the layers of protection – the tall guard towers, an interior wall, the open, sandy area which prevented anyone from hiding, and the final, taller wall which separated East from West. Over the years, people tried desperately to escape, and many did not get out alive. They tried just about every method possible to get into West Berlin, including hot air balloons, hidden compartments in cars, digging underground tunnels. From its raising in 1961 until it fell in 1989, it is estimated that almost 200 people died trying to cross from East to West.

This piece of art sits in the “No Man’s Land” space at the Berlin Wall, and has photos of those who died at the Wall

A portion of the Berlin Wall and guard tower that have been left in place as a monument

The Wall was built alongside apartment buildings, sometimes through buildings, and even in the underground train stations. The few underground stations that still had train service were blocked-off to East Berlin residents and were heavily-guarded. Called Ghost Stations, no one was allowed to enter or exit – these trains were just passing-through. East German guards were stationed inside cells within the Ghost Stations, there was always more than one guard at a time, as they had to watch each other, to be sure the guards themselves did not escape the East.

Walking Tour guide, Matti, showing us an East Berlin Ghost Station

This is the building where people who visited from the West would have to pass inspection and questioning on the way out of the East. Matti told us its name came from the tears shed as loved ones said goodbye before entering the building. He also told us about the approximately 200 people who suffered heart attacks or strokes inside the building, as the questioning was so stressful. This is what I remember of the process:

Upon entering East Berlin, West Germans were required to exchange Western currency for Eastern marks. The exchange rate was a joke, as East German Marks were basically worthless – this was their way to make sure the more valuable Western Marks were kept in the East. When they left, the Westerners were questioned in small, windowless booths inside the Palace of Tears: who did they visit, what did they buy, how much did they spend? . . . All of the money had to be accounted for, as they were not allowed to leave with any of the money they’d exchanged. Even though Westerners had the right to leave, it was so stressful that some people actually had heart attacks during the questioning. There was always the chance that one could be accused of wrongdoing, and detained in the East.

Modern Memorials to Victims of WWII

The modern Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, opened in 2005, is truly dramatic. Filling the space of a large, open square, it is a series of concrete blocks of varying size, which invites visitors to walk between and (almost) get lost among the taller blocks. Designed by architect Peter Eisenman and engineer Buro Happold, the structures were intended to encourage each person to have their own experience and interpretation of the design as it memorializes the millions of Jewish victims of WWII.

Another moving, modern memorial is the 2008 Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted Under Nazism. Designed by artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, this concrete cube sits among trees and flowers at the edge of Berlin’s large Tiergarten (a large, central park). In the window, one can view a video loop of men kissing. Originally, the video was limited to men kissing, because there is only clear documentation of gay men being persecuted by Nazis. After some discussion, it was decided that the video be changed every two years to include women kissing as well.

This large metal profile of Georg Elser, by Ulrich Klages, sits on Wilhelmstraße. Elser is remembered for his brave attempt to assassinate Adolf Hitler. In 1939, Georg Elser carried-out plans to set-off explosives during a speech Hitler was to make. The bomb went-off just as planned, however, Hitler had left the venue unexpectedly early, thereby missing the explosion. Eight people were killed and more than 60 injured, but Hitler was unfortunately spared.

Modern Berlin

Today, Berlin is a really cool, young, vibrant, cosmopolitan city. One can visit museums, war monuments, the Bundestag (its building is called the Reichstag, where the German Parliament meets), gardens and parks, churches and monuments (some heavily-damaged during WWII). There are tons of great restaurants and places to shop. In addition to all of the local eateries, it was a fun surprise to see Dunkin Donuts — a treat from the U.S. (and a truly LARGE cup of coffee)!

We were able to get tickets online to visit the Reichstag. This historic building is popular with tourists, so get your tickets early if you’re visiting during the summer months! The Reichstag has transformed since German Reunification. Its 19^th Century structure now has a glass dome, and visitors can actually see down into the floor of the Parliament to watch government in action. The symbolism of the glass as transparency and openness of government to its people is strong, highlighting Germany’s clear break from it’s difficult past.

Berlin’s famous department store: KaDeWe

Mark and I at KaDeWe, all decorated for Valentine’s Day

Much like Harrod’s in London, Berlin’s KaDeWe Department Store (pronounced “kah-day-vay”) is worth a stop – even for me, a non-shopper. Where else can one buy a collector’s item Steiff stuffed animal, a beautiful assortment of charcuterie and cheeses, AND a pickle in a can? You name it, they’ve probably got it at KaDeWe.

My favorite Stiff ever: a Welsh Terrier! At €139, I just admired it, and left it on the shelf. The clerk gave me quite the look, as I handled the collectable stuffy — she would have preferred I keep my hands to myself (but there were no signs stating one could not touch). Pfffft to her!

Pickle in a can at KaDeWe (a much less expensive souvenir)

German Food

I probably should have had a feature on food in each city we visited, since it is always a highlight for Mark and I to try the local cuisine wherever we go. German food is often hearty, with plenty of meat (sometimes breaded and fried, as in wiener schnitzel, sometimes beautifully roasted). They don’t shy away from carbs (and why should you, in moderation?). Späetzle (little noodles), knödel (large, round, boiled dumplings), or potatoes of various preparation are usually among the side dishes, and their breads (especially those with seeds) are delicious. Of course, there are plenty of healthy choices, both traditional and contemporary, but these were some of our favorites. . .

Wiener Schnitzel with warm cucumber salad Goulash with späetzle, Äpfel Strudel, Sausage with potato puree, Roast pork with knüdel, and currywurst (yummy street food)

Some of the fine chocolates at Rausch Schokoladenhaus, down the street from our hotel

Nature (and History) Walks on the Edge of Paris, April 2017

Everyone planning a trip to Paris knows about the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, the river Seine, Notre Dame, The Louvre. . . there is so much to do here, and never enough time for the person on vacation. Living here has given us the opportunity to explore other sides of this magnificent city, and I’d love to share some of my favorites with you.

In previous blog posts, I’ve mentioned our Meetup Dog Walks in the Bois (Woods) de Vincennes, just East of Paris proper. I’ve highlighted my favorite city parks: the lovely, stately, neighborhood Parc Monceau and bustling Jardin du Luxembourg, enjoyed by tourists and locals alike. In the past two weeks, a friend from the knitting group at the American Church in Paris has offered to guide our group in two Springtime-perfect walks. We’ve explored the Parc de Sceaux (pronounced “so”) just south of Paris, and the Parc de Saint-Cloud, to the west.

Parc de Sceaux

Just about 20 minutes south of central Paris via regional train RER B, Parc de Sceaux seems lightyears away from the hustle and bustle of the big city. Although the Château de Sceaux was destroyed during the French Revolution, it has been rebuilt (1850s) and is quite picturesque.

The real stand-out here, are 200 acres of gardens, designed by André Le Nôtre. Le Nôtre was the French landscape architect to King Louis XIV, probably most famous for his design of the gardens at the Château de Versailles. Mark and I have also enjoyed his magnificent gardens at the Châteaux Fontainebleu, Saint-Germain, and Chantilly. One can also see his influence in the design of Paris’ Tuileries and the Champs-Élysées.

The Parc de Sceaux is a year-round beauty, but in the Spring, its groves of cherry trees (one pink, one white) are drop-dead-gorgeous. We brought a picnic, spread our blankets on the grass under a cherry tree popping with pink pom-pom blossoms, and enjoyed the fresh air.

Parc de Saint-Cloud

Parc de Saint-Cloud is located just west of the Paris Periphérique (the highway that encircles the city). We reached it by going to the end of Métro Line 10 (stop: Boulogne Pont de Saint-Cloud), where we disembarked and walked a short distance over le Pont de Saint-Cloud, across the Seine, and into the park.

One of France’s designated Remarkable Gardens, the enormous parc spans over 1,100 acres which include French gardens (also designed by Le Nôtre), an English garden, Marie Antoinette’s rose garden, and woods. It was once the location of the Château de Saint-Cloud, which was a royal residence from the 16^th Century until its destruction during the Franco-Prussian War in 1870. Rulers and their families, from Louis XIV (AKA “The Sun King”) to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, and the Napoleons, both I and III lived here.

Chestnut trees in the woods at le Parc de Saint-Cloud

I can’t choose my favorite feature of the parc, but one that stands-out is certainly the panoramic view of Paris from the elevated clearing near where the château once stood, called “La Lanterne.”

A Weekend in Strasbourg, France: 6-9 January, 2017

We had originally planned to visit Strasbourg during December, when it hosts one of the oldest Christmas Markets in Europe (first held in 1570). Unfortunately, I got sick the night before, and we had to reschedule our trip. There are plenty of Christmas Markets in Europe, so we did get to experience them in other cities, including the enormous Paris market along the Champs-Élysées. Our January visit to Strasbourg was fun – but boy, was it COLD! The temperature was below freezing the entire time we were there, plus it snowed. I would love to re-visit the city in warmer temperatures, to see the lovely buildings when their flower boxes are blooming.

First, a little background info: Strasbourg, France is located in the Alsace Region near the German border. It has a rich history, punctuated over the centuries by periods of rule alternating between France and Germany. It is the official seat of the European Parliament, and home to France’s 2^nd largest university, the University of Strasbourg (founded in 1538).

Le Grand Île and Petite France

Built in the 1890s, the Gothic Revival Église Réformée Saint-Paul is a major landmark in Strasbourg. Lutheran members of the Imperial German Garrison who were stationed in Strasbourg attended this church.

A view of the 13th Century towers, canals, and old town from atop the covered footbridge

The historic city center, Le Grand Île, is the only city center that has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With its half-timbered buildings and towering Cathédrale de Notre Dame de Strasbourg, the island, created by a canal fed by the Rhine, is stunning.

Mark, in front of Strasbourg’s Cathédrale de Notre Dame

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Strasbourg is a fine example of late Gothic architecture. There have been religious buildings on this site since Roman times, but this cathedral was built between 1176 – 1439. Writer Victor Hugo described it as “a gigantic and delicate marvel.” Built of sandstone from the Vosges mountains, it has a distinct pink color. Click this link to see and hear the cathedral’s bells ring:

https://youtu.be/C1yxZNVPme4

Quartier Allemand

The Quartier Allemand (German District) houses the Place de la République and the elegant, domed Palais du Rhin, a former German Imperial palace.

Palais du Rhin, an example of 19th Century Prussian architecture

Many times over the centuries, Germany and France have fought each other to rule the Alsace area which includes Strasbourg. This poignant statue pays homage to the loss of lives on both sides, often from the same family. Here, a mother grieves over two lost sons – one who fought for Germany and one for France.

Statue on the Place de la République, a mother grieving over her two sons who died in war (one German, one French)

Quartier Européen

The seat of the European Parliament is located in a more modern part of the city, called the Quartier Européen. Some parliamentary meetings are also held in Brussels, Belgium and Luxemboug City, but most meetings (12 sessions/year) are held here, and voting must take place in Strasbourg. We took the tram out to see this part of town, a short distance from the old city center.

Mark and I, in front of the EU Parliament

We had fun watching the kids sledding by the European Parliament! Click this link to watch, too:

https://youtu.be/gHmBs-9FnH4

Paris Street Art, March 2017

When our kids (Sam 23, and Molly 20) came to visit from the States, we knew we would take them to all of the popular Paris sites: Notre Dame, an afternoon cruise on the Seine, Montmartre/Sacré Cœur, the Eiffel Tower, and several museums. But what else could we do that might be a little “off the beaten path”? Wandering the city, I’ve seen quite a bit of street art (AKA graffiti). I’m not talking about the talentless tagging – simple initials or crudely-rendered scribbles with spray-paint. There is real art on the walls of this (and many other) cities. Street Art Paris gives an insightful, interesting walking tour that was a highlight of Sam and Molly’s visit for all four of us. We learned a lot about street art and graffiti culture on Virginie’s tour of the working-class 11^th and 20^th Arrondissements (Oberkampf and Belleville), and had fun along the way. www.streetartparis.fr

Some would argue that unauthorized, illegal marking of walls in any form is not art, but vandalism. Officially, the city agrees. Anyone caught by the Paris police marking walls with paint – or even removable chalk – is subject to a minimum fine of €3,750. The fine increases if the building’s owner wants to press charges. Police generally do not turn and look the other way – artists are often caught and charged with the crime. For this reason, most of the street art performed in Paris takes place in the dark of night. Can you imagine creating this piece in the dark, at the top of a very tall building, hanging onto a ladder with one hand while stretching-out to paint with another?

Some artists risk life and limb (in addition to fines and jail time).

Often, the art reflects the artist’s feelings regarding current political and social issues. Shepard Fairey is known worldwide for his original painting of Obama, and his André The Giant pieces, small and large, that allude to Big Brother can be seen everywhere from stickers on light poles to large wall stencils. Now a full-time artist, his is work is displayed in The Smithsonian, The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, and the Los Angeles Museum of Modern Art, among others.

Shepard Fairey’s André The Giant/Big Brother is Watching

Probably one of the most famous pieces created by street artist, Shepard Fairey

I couldn’t make-out the name of this artist, but his/her feelings are pretty clear.

Both single artists and groups (often with a supportive crew and lookouts) go to great lengths to create their masterpieces. Some are better artists than others, of course, and some take greater risks, like climbing ladders on rooftops and hanging out windows or on the side of a building. There are those who are quite famous (Banksy and Shepard Ferrie come to mind), who have traveled the world to place their works in multiple countries. One young Parisian artist, who went by the pseudonym Zoo Project, decided to create his art in America. He unfortunately chose Detroit as his canvas, and was shot and killed by gang members who knew nothing of his fame and ability.

ZOO PROJECT, murdered by gang members in Detroit while creating his art.

There is a code of conduct among artists. While it isn’t always respected, it is generally agreed that one never paints over someone else’s work, unless their talent is at the same level or greater. If they decide to paint over another artist, they must completely cover the previous work before beginning their own. Everyone knows that the art is meant to be temporary, so nothing is off-limits, if the next person has more talent. It is extremely disrespectful to tag another artist’s work.

Virginie told us that there is an easy way to identify each piece of art:

The artist will have a pseudonym with (usually) 4 or 5 letters, with which he/she will tag the art when finished.
The artist will often have one or more crews identified on the work, and each crew is usually ID’d with three letters.
The art is usually dated (and if you see something that has been there quite a while, it is probably because the artist is widely-respected).

HNRX is food-obsessed – most of his paintings are of food in some way or another.

One highly-secretive artist who goes by the pseudonym INVADER is a graduate of Paris’ School of Fine Arts (École des Beaux-Arts). He uses ceramic tiles to create pixel-like characters (inspired by the early video game, Space Invaders) that can be found in more than 60 cities throughout 30 countries. He’s placed over 1,000 pieces worldwide, and you can even download a free app to your smartphone, “Flash Invaders,” to capture images and score points for each one you see.

Artists have what they call a Black Book, a sketch book with their plans for future art. These are the artist’s most guarded possession, as it not only has their creative ideas, but can be used against them if the police get ahold of it. We watched one talented, well-known artist, POX, working on a street in Belleville who uses his smartphone as a blueprint – leaving his black book in a safe location elsewhere.

POX was working during the day on this street, as it is generally considered acceptable (even by the police) to paint here. Our guide, who is friends with POX, was so excited to be able to introduce us and show us his work in action. Like a lot of these folks, he wears a respirator and usually gloves, to protect his health (although he still smokes cigarettes, LOL).

An older piece of POX’s. It’s been here quite a while, and nobody has painted over it — a sign of respect for his talent.

It is a heavily male-dominated field, but there are a few women who have gained notoriety and respect for their craft, such as KASHINK (self-proclaimed artist, activist and performer). Her work is known for its fat faces with four eyes, a uni-brow, and for being very hairy. She is well-respected in the street art culture, but note the disrespectful tagging of her work here:

KASHINK Note the title, Girls Just Wanna Have Fun-damental Rights.

It is important to note that most street artists have full-time jobs in another field. They are creating art on their own time, at their own cost, receiving no compensation. However, some of the more talented artist become so popular that they’re recognized in the legitimate art world, and those can become professionals, charging sometimes thousands for a single canvas. Alex HOPARE, one of the nine artists (8 men, 1 woman) on Belleville’s Dream Wall (which was a commissioned, legitimate, piece) is one of those.

HOPARE: His work always features women, lots of fine lines and energy – very fine work with just spray paint (no stencils). Now earning his living with his art, a canvas can fetch €20,000.

The city of Paris recognizes the art with a project called “Le Mur” (the wall). This one large wall, located at 107 Rue Oberkampf in the 11^th Arrondissement, is commissioned to non-professional street artists who have applied for the honor to be chosen to paint here. The city pays €750 to a chosen artist, every 1^st and 3^rd Saturday per month, to cover the old art and paint their own masterpiece. The current wall, by CIX MUGRE of Mexico, is number 230 in this series. I asked how these artists are willing to come-out publicly with their art, since it is illegal and would have them publicly acknowledge their work. Virginie explained that some artists work with their faces masked, to protect their identity, while others may be older and feel that it is time to enter the legitimate art world (like CIX MUGRE). For more information: http://www.lemur.fr

Le Mur CIX MUGRE, Virginie pointed-out the homage to the Three Monkeys (see no evil, hear no evil and speak no evil), as well as the yin-yang in each circular face.

Joy to the World: Christmas in Paris 2016

I’ve had some folks from back home ask me, “How are the holidays celebrated in Paris?” While I won’t actually be spending the week between Christmas and New Year’s in France, I’d love to share my observations on the lead-up to the holidays.

Oh Tannenbaum (Christmas Markets)

In many parts of Europe, and Paris is no exception, you’ll see Christmas Markets (Marché de Noël) pop-up in squares and grand boulevards (usually mid-November through the first week of January). Wooden chalets line the streets, each offering enough space for vendors to display and sell all sorts of gift items The largest one I’ve visited in Paris was along the Champs-Élysées, which had more than 200 booths. On offer are scarves, hats and gloves, decorative housewares like pillows, blankets and knick-knacks, children’s toys, chocolates and a variety of candies, artisanal meats & cheeses, handmade soaps and jewelry, and leather goods, just to name a few. If you get hungry or thirsty while you shop, never fear! There are the treats ubiquitous to street fairs worldwide, like fried chi chis (churros), candied apples, and barb à papa (cotton candy), but you can also choose regional dishes such as hearty cassoulet, a white bean, goose, duck, & sausage dish from the southwestern Occitan region, fresh, raw oysters, shucked to order, champagne by the glass, German sausage and sauerkraut, Italian paella, and even salmon being cooked over an open fire right before your eyes. Along the street, there are Christmas decorations – colorful nutcrackers, artificial snowmen and santas, and trees strung with colorful lights add to the festive atmosphere. One thing that really stood-out to me: Christmas music is played throughout the market, and it was ALL in English!

My friend, Theresa, at the Champs-Élysées Christmas Market, Paris

Christmas Market in the Place du Capitole in Toulouse, France

Deck the Halls With Boughs of Holly (Malls)

During December, I had the opportunity to visit a couple of malls in Paris. I am here to report that they are much the same as they are at home: decorated for the holiday, playing Christmas music (also in English), and crowded with shoppers.

Quatre Temps mall in Paris at La Défense

Oh, Holy Night, The Stars are Brightly Shining (Churches)

In my experience of churches at home in the states, most take the opportunity to decorate for Christmas. It is no different here in Paris. Often, you will see floral decorations throughout the church as well as at the alter. There are also Nativity scenes of all sizes. When I visited the world-famous Cathedral of Notre Dame in central Paris, they were busy installing their Nativity scene, which included hundreds of figurines, buildings, animals and the crèche.

Setting-up the Nativity scene at la Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris

City sidewalks, busy sidewalks, dressed in holiday style, in the air there’s a feeling of Christmas (Christmas Windows)

I have not had the pleasure of seeing New York City’s Christmas windows, but have heard about them since I was a little girl. My friend, Melissa, tells me the shop windows in Paris are a little like those in NYC. There are three large department stores in Paris that really make an effort to spruce-up (pardon the holiday pun) their display windows for the holidays. In Paris’ 9^th Arrondissement, you’ll find Printemps and Galeries Lafayette. These two department stores cover about two city blocks, and most of their windows are decorated. This year, Printemps went with brightly-colored scenes of charming puppets: children playing in the perfume, shoe and crystal departments, dwarfed by giant candies, as well as puppets of animals playing musical instruments.

Me, at one of the windows at Printemps in Paris’ 9th Arrondissement

Paris’ Printemps window featuring women’s shoes. This little puppet was adorable, trying-on shoes while the animated “grown-up” legs behind her moved.

At Galeries Lafayette, the windows were filled with animated snowy scenes of white paper, crafted to look like polar bears, penguins, and winter scenes. The center of the store is drop-dead gorgeous all year long, as it is a rotunda crowned with a stained-glass dome. The Christmas decorations make it even more so — several stories tall, the rotunda is filled with an elaborate Christmas tree.

Galeries Lafayette, in Paris’ 9th. The windows had raised catwalks, so children could get up-close to see the decorations. They were charmed by the puppets!

The department store BHV / Marais, in Paris’ 4^th Arrondissement also decorated their windows with snow and moving puppets of Santa and mischievous elves. Don’t tell anyone, but I thought the elves were a little creepy!

In these first photos, I was visiting on a weekday afternoon. As you can see, viewing these windows is a whole different story during the last weekend before Christmas. I would not recommend waiting!

Oh, la la! The crowds on the last weekend before Christmas were a pain!

Winter Wonderland (Disneyland Paris)

It was kind of a spur-of-the-moment decision to go to Disneyland Paris and the Walt Disney Studio parks this past weekend. We’d been on the fence about going to them at all – after all, we can go to Disneyland as often as we’d like, being Southern Californians. With a free Sunday, and no real plans, the idea of seeing that classic Disney Christmas was really appealing. Visiting the park is super easy, as it lies right on the regional train line – it’s only a 35-minute train ride directly to the entrance of the park. No traffic, no parking, no long drive home at the end of a full day!

Christmas at Disneyland Paris is very much like it is in the LA parks. They do such a beautiful job of decorating every inch of the parks with lights, “snow”, and garlands. The characters were all wearing their Christmas costumes, and Main Street pumps-out fake snow (bubbles) at regular intervals. Disney Magic is turned-up to 11! I thought that the Paris park’s Sleeping Beauty Castle was glorious, its rooftops bedecked with tiny white lights, sparkling like champagne bubbles (or maybe it’s actually Fairy Dust).

Click the link below to see it sparkle!

https://youtu.be/hbnYQRV1xAg

We had park-hopper tickets, and spent a couple of hours at the Walt Disney Studio park. This is where they’ve got the Toy Story area (OMG, so cute to have all of the giant classic toys!)

Some interesting things at these parks: The Tower of Terror is still here (not closed-down, like the one in CA). Indiana Jones is an outdoor rollercoaster instead of an adventure theme ride (still fun, with fast turns, good drops and a loop). There is no Jungle Ride, Tiki Room (no Dole Whip!), Matterhorn, Nemo Submarine or Splash Mountain. They do have a really cool, Jules Verne-style Captain Nemo’s Nautilus that you can explore, They’ve got a Magic Carpet ride (similar to Dumbo), a cool 3-D Ratatouille ride, and the Disney standards, Haunted Mansion (Phantom Manor) and Pirates of the Caribbean (sans Johnny Depp) are both there. While it is still an awesome roller-coaster, Space Mountain is quite different, both inside and out. Before you go, check-out the park info online to avoid disappointment if you have a favorite ride in CA:

http://www.disneylandparis.co.uk

Despite near-freezing temperatures, we had a great time! If you visit Disneyland Paris, here are my suggestions:

Download the Disneyland Paris app on your phone before you go to the park. This has an interactive map which includes approximate wait times.

If you’d like to eat dinner at a restaurant where you can sit-down, make reservations early in the day at one of the park’s restaurants. You can make reservations by calling directly from the app, but I also saw a kiosk on Main Street where you could use an ATM-like machine to reserve for later in the day.

There are not as many dining options or snack carts here as there are in CA. Bring some snacks. There is a designated picnic spot outside of the entrance, but you can eat snacks as you walk around with no problem.

Don’t count on FastPasses. The day we were there, most FastPass kiosks were closed.

I’ll Be Home For Christmas (our home in Vincennes, France)

Our petite ville, Vincennes, is just on the southeastern edge of Paris. We feel so fortunate to have found an apartment (two, actually) in Vincennes, because it is right on the regional train line (RER) that Mark takes to work, and it is at the end of the Métro line 1 which crosses the city of Paris. We can be anywhere in the city within 20-30 minutes. The icing on top of the cake is that we also have within walking distance the vast Bois de Vincennes (woods and park created by Emperor Napoleon III in 1855) and the regal Château de Vincennes (former residence of the Kings of France). Vincennes has a lively community, while maintaining a small-town feel. We were enchanted to see this little band of merry-makers adding to the holiday festivities with music and good cheer one evening this week as we did our grocery shopping.

Click the link below for a short video of the fun:

https://youtu.be/zbSLxl0dJW0

The square at the train station in Vincennes even has a small Christmas market. Every night of the week, there are families gathered to chat with friends, indulge in treats, ride the ride and buy gifts.

Silent Night (Vincennes)

Around Town: Daily Life in Paris/Vincennes, France

With a few weekends spent “at home” in our Vincennes Airbnb apartment, we have had a little more time to be inhabitants rather than tourists. Living in another country is different than being a tourist, as everyday activities that are second-nature at home can be a challenge. Mark came-up with a great phrase for all of this, and we use it often: la courbe d’apprentissage (the learning curve, as we say back home).

Mail

Mark has had some things to send to friends in California for a while, but it is expensive to use the French post (and can take a long time to reach its destination). It took some research to find another service (kind of like UPS) – but then we had to find a good box (I have a pile of assorted boxes at home, but where does one get one here?). It even took a while to find packing tape.

Shopping

There is a great store here, Monoprix, that carries lots of things, sort of like Target. The larger Monoprix’ even have clothes, groceries, some fresh fruits and veg., and limited household goods. However, things that are not carried include: contact lens solution (must get at an optician) contact lens cleaner and over-the-counter meds like Advil and vitamins (only available at a pharmacy), if you want fresh seafood, there’s the fish shop next door, and another shop for a better selection of fruit and vegetables (or you can get all of that at a bi-weekly street/farmer’s market).

Think about grocery shopping when you’re in an unfamiliar store (how much longer it takes to find all of the things you need). Multiply that by a factor of four when you’re in another country! I enjoy seeing items on the shelves that are unfamiliar, and it is really fun to try different stuff. The tricky thing is to find items that you have a real preference for. We’re all loyal to some brands, because we like the way they taste, smell, feel, or perform compared to others we’ve tried. I have used Tide for over 20 years, but there is no Tide here. There are great products that work just as well – but which are best? They all smell different, too. The first one I tried worked fine, but made our clothes smell too sweet, like flowers – no “mountain fresh” or the like. Toilet paper – at home, I know just what to grab off of the shelf. Here, one was too thin and another was almost as thick as paper towels (weird!). Like Goldilocks, with a little trial and error, I’ve finally found one that is “just right.” Think of your favorite food – will they have something like that where you are? We like Mexican food, but the grocery stores have just a small selection, and they’re not spicy (though I can approximate it). In a big, cosmopolitan city like Paris, you can find almost anything, for a price. I found Skippy (peanut butter is not common here), 8oz for about $5.50. Yes, I bought it!

Last week, we were having new friends, Melissa (an American from FL) and husband Olivier (French), over to the apartment to play board games one evening. I figured I’d do an easy meat and cheese, bread, fruit and wine spread, since they’d be arriving after the work day, and we wouldn’t have time to go out to dinner. In the new Airbnb apartment, I have a stovetop, but no oven, and only the basic few pots and pans, so cooking a meal for four seemed a little ambitious. It was super fun to have them over, and the food was good – I think we were all full. Here’s the difference between the prep for this evening vs. doing it in my own house in CA: I made two trips to the Monoprix, because wine, some household things I needed, AND groceries would be too heavy to carry home on foot. On the second trip, I also stopped at the cheese shop, the boulangerie (for the baguettes), and the farmer’s market for fruit. All stores are nearby, and easy to walk to, and the quality of some items (cheese and bread especially) is far better than in CA. However, in California, it would have been one trip and done! Please don’t think I’m complaining, though! I’m just illustrating some of the differences between daily life here and there.

Getting ready to have friends over to play board games.

Goat’s cheese from the specialty cheese shop. OMG, delicious! It is said that there are more varieties of cheese in France than there are days in a year!

Friends and Family

Speaking of entertaining, we definitely miss our friends and family! Thank goodness for social media, especially FaceTime, so we can keep in touch and actually see the kids (and them us) when we chat. It isn’t easy with busy schedules on both sides of the Atlantic to find a good time to talk, but it is wonderful when we do. We can’t wait for a couple of friends to come visit, and Molly and Sam will be here for Spring Break!!!

Snapchat screenshot of Sam & Molly in Lodi for Thanksgiving. Representing the holiday with silly hats Mark sent (pumpkin pie and turkey).

Through the social media app, Meetup, we have found some friends through both a boardgame Meetup that Mark has started, and a Paris Dog Walk Meetup that Mark found early-on. We took a drive out of town with two of our new friends, Theresa and Stuart (ex-pats from New Zealand who have lived all over the world). Theresa and I both enjoy walking, so we often meet for lunch during the week and walk the different areas (arrondissements) of Paris, discovering shops, restaurants and interesting buildings all over the city. We have such fun together, and are so happy to have found them!

We had a fun day at Château De Chantilly with new friends, Theresa and Stuart.

Seeing a movie in the theater

The bigger theaters have showings of American movies both in VO (original version, with French subtitles) and dubbed in French. Most theaters have ticket sales at automated kiosks, like we see at home, and the machines offer interaction in English, so you can make sure you’re doing it correctly if you don’t understand French. The seating is a little different sometimes – we saw a movie in one theater that had one long row of a high-backed sofa, that had pull-down armrests (not individual seats), but most are similar to ours. Popcorn and other snacks and drinks are offered in the lobby, but people don’t seem to eat quite as much in theaters here as they do back in the US. There is definitely less paper-rattling and popcorn crunching! Often, the smaller theaters have a restroom with one toilet for men and one for women right in the theater, rather than a larger restroom in the lobby.

Me in the theater, chatting with a German woman as we wait our turn to use the restroom.

Safety

This is a big question for many, and one of the first things some said to us when we told them we were going to be living here was along the lines of “Oh, stay safe! Terrorism these days…” Yep. Sadly, it has happened here, but it has also happened in America. No matter where we are in the world, we definitely need to be aware of our surroundings. Since the terrorist attacks here, the police have stepped-up their presence. You’ll often see them in heavily-populated areas, walking in groups of three or four, with automatic weapons in their hands. It is jarring to see that, but also reassuring. As for crime in general, Paris is quiet a safe place to be. The main concern for safety here is pickpockets, rather than mugging or violent crime. The cross-body purse is my best friend, and I use little carabiners (get them at a sports store, like Big 5) to attach the zipper-pull to the strap of the purse, to discourage sneaky fingers. Men should never put valuables in back pockets. Public transit is safe and easy to navigate. There are Métro stations sprinkled generously throughout the city, and you don’t have to walk far to get from one to another. Even after midnight, you’ll be among lots of other people of all ages, and feel quite safe. They may not be super clean or sweet-smelling, but they are well-lit and busy.

For reference, we live in the bottom, right-hand side, our stop is the Yellow Line (1), Chateau du Vincennes. Notre Dame Cathedral is in the island on the Seine at the map’s center, which takes about 20 minutes for us to reach from our apartment. Most sites in Paris are no more than 35 minutes from our place via the Métro or RER (regional train). Mark usually works outside of Paris (east of our apartment). He catches the RER just down the street from the apartment to get to work.

Mark, on the platform waiting for the RER (regional train) to go to work.

Some friends have asked if we love it here. We do love that we get to have this experience. Living in another country, even temporarily, is eye-opening in so many ways. While I might say that we do some things better in the US, they do other things better here. On balance, I think that this time in our lives has helped us to better appreciate both places.

Kraków, Poland: History, Old and New. November 11 – 13, 2016

A three-day weekend for Veterans Day (U.S.)/Remembrance Day (Europe) gave us a little extra time to go further afield and visit Kraków, Poland. We’ve been excited about going to Poland, a country neither of us has visited before, and it was even more special because of two holidays in one. In addition to the holiday celebrating the veterans after the end of WWI, Poland also celebrates its own National Independence Day on 11 November, commemorating the anniversary of the restoration its sovereignty in 1918, after having been partitioned (yep, divided-up!) for 123 years by the Russian Empire. This holiday made our visit even more special, as the Polish flag was hung in streets and on buildings, and we even got to see a bit of a military parade.

Thursday Night

Kraków Airport & Train

Arrival in the Kraków airport couldn’t have been easier to manage. It’s small (think Burbank), modern and clean, and is directly attached to their (also very clean) regional train. Like all cities we have visited, the automated ticket machines allow you to buy your tickets with a choice of English instructions (super important here, because Polish is nothing like any of the languages we are familiar with). Within a few minutes, we were sitting in a train car with about a dozen rowdy Brits on holiday, and two couriers from Michigan who were delivering some mechanical something to a company in Kraków. It was a hoot to listen, and then chat with these guys in the 30-min trip to Kraków Old Town train station. If we arrive somewhere new at night, we take a taxi from the train station to the hotel when we arrive, to make things easier. From the station to the hotel, it was only a few minutes (an easy, safe walk, we knew we’d skip the taxi on our return).

Hotel in Old Town

Our hotel was right in Old Town (Stare Miasto), and we couldn’t have been happier with the place. Hotel Pod Roza is located in an elegant 16th century building (Kraków hotels have very reasonable prices, compared to Western EU). They’d upgraded us to a suite, which I think is actually bigger than our fairly spacious Paris apartment (though no kitchen). It was comfortable, and had a terrific breakfast as well.

Since we’d arrived in the evening and hadn’t had dinner yet, we walked to the main square, and chose an outdoor table (heaters and blankets provided). One of the things we wanted to do in Poland was to try some authentic local food. We ordered a charcuterie and cheese board to share with a variety of local cold sausages, baked pork terrine, and cheeses (sheep and cow), radishes and a sprinkling of large salt crystals. It also came with a super-yummy condiment of horseradish and cranberries. Mark tried a local beer (which I also liked a lot), Ksiażece. For dessert, we both ordered hot chocolate, which was thick, very chocolate-y, topped with whipped cream, and amazing — almost like hot pudding. The evening was cold (near freezing), but clear, so we walked around the square before heading back to the room for the night.

Old Town square at night — Kraków square at night: caption – Kraków’s medieval Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is St. Mary’s Church

If you’re interested, here’s a link to Rick Steves’ Travel video about visiting Krakòw: https://youtu.be/blg6CY4iYXI

Friday

Old Town Walking Tour

We love taking a guided walking tour on our first day, to get oriented. This morning, we joined a Free Walking Tour of medieval Old Town, to learn about Kraków’s history. Our guide, nicknamed Golden, has a law degree and is fluent in six languages. Having grown-up under communist rule, he had an interesting perspective and was a great story-teller, incorporating stories from his family and childhood to make the place come alive. We saw the fortified outpost, Kraków Barbican (1498) and what remains of the medieval city wall, the market square and cloth hall, Jagiellonian University (since 1364), and finished with a walk up the hill to the Wawel Castle and Cathedral. Golden pointed-out the part of the castle which used to house prized horses, and eventually became the garage for royal cars, saying in his Polish accent, “Times change-ed, toys change-ed, but boys didn’t change-ed.”

Barbican: This gothic fortified outpost, built around 1498, was originally the first point of entry and attached to the city wall. Nobody got through here without permission.

Market square and cloth hall, Europe’s largest medieval market square (1257)

After the tour, we had just enough time for a delicious lunch at a Hungarian restaurant (beef goulash soup for me, and potato pancakes topped with beef goulash and sour cream for Mark. Mark also tried hot, mulled beer, but wasn’t a fan).

Wieliczka Salt Mine

Just a 30-Another UNESCO World Heritage Site close to Kraków is the Wieliczka Salt Mine, mined for table salt from the 13^th century until 2007. Mining was stopped due to a freshwater flood, which damaged the mine and made much of it unsafe, as well as the declining profitability of salt mining. The guided tour begins at a mine closest to ground-level, around 400 steps down, in an area mined in the 1500s. Eventually, we descended another 400 steps to the most recently-mined part of the site. As visitors pass through hallways of shiny, smooth grey-and-white salt, as well as hallways fortified with pine logs, they see monuments which were carved by miners, mining equipment, salt-water lakes, and two underground chapels (one which still hosts events, weddings, and regular Sunday services). One thing that really stood-out to me was the working conditions. Certainly, every kind of mine had terrible working conditions, and this was no exception. Sadly, they also used horses to pull heavy loads – and once a horse was brought down into the mine, it lived there, in darkness, for the rest of its life. The tour takes about 3 hours (there is a bathroom break), and the site is interesting – but we had a terrible tour guide. Her monotone explanation of the mine and the fact that she clearly did not care to answer questions (we tried) fell quite flat. We noticed that the other guides didn’t sound any more interesting than she was. Eventually, the tour ends in a gift shop (don’t they all?) – and another gift shop, and another. . . and then you get to take a miner’s elevator, squished together with other visitors, to the surface. Thank goodness for the elevator – we had already walked over 17,000 steps today!

St Kinga’s Chapel, completely carved out of salt. They still host regular Sunday services and weddings.

Saturday

Podziemia Rynku Museum: Following the Traces of European Identity of Kraków

This museum lies directly under the cloth hall in the old town square, and contains interesting displays of the articles found in the excavation of the site under the building. Some large sections of dirt have been left intact, with exhibits explaining when in the city’s history each layer was created (different layers of earth and wooden sidewalk curbs, etc. that were exposed). The articles found in the excavated areas included things of daily life from 1,000 years of history: shoes, rope, clothing, combs and jewelry, game pieces and toys, iron, silver and goldsmithing implements, cookwear.

Kraków Free Walking Tour: Communism

This was so interesting! We met the same tour guide, Golden, who had taken us on Friday’s Old Town tour, for a closer look at the communist era in Poland after WWII. Tram tickets in hand, we took a short ride with Golden and five others (from the U.S., Belgium, Portugal, The Philippines, and Germany) to a nearby suburb of Kraków, Nowa Huta, which was built by the Soviets (1950s-80s) as a factory town for the new steel mill.

Post-WWII times were difficult on the Polish people. About six million people (about 1/5^th of their pre-war total) had been killed, they had high unemployment, a shortage of housing, and an entire generation that had basically missed years of education during the war. Communism promised electricity in every village and education for all. The steel mill improved the local economy by employing thousands, and the housing created for workers, their families, and the community around it brought stability to the area. The first blocks of apartments, built in the 50s, were mostly like dorm rooms. They were single rooms, with shared bathrooms and kitchens. This was fine for the young men who were assigned to build the town and the steel mill – they needed a roof over their heads and education. In the 60s, more blocks of housing were built, but these were a little bigger, including a separate bedroom and a kitchen. As they moved into the 70s and 80s, people hoped for a little more each decade: meat two or three days a week, a second bedroom, maybe even a car. If I remember correctly, he explained that it was something like: every block had its own kindergarten and restaurant, every few blocks had its own doctor, grocery, and middle school, and a larger area of blocks had a high school, cultural center, hospital, etc. The convenience of having everything one needed near their homes is actually what makes this area still a popular place to live today. These were the benefits of communism. It was not extravagant, but compared with wartime, people had security, jobs, education, and food.

In communist times, one had to have a special permission to own or use a camera like this

Communism had its cons, too, because (as Golden pointed-out) “People are greed”(y). The system says everyone is equal, but corruption flourished. There was a market for Western goods that had to be purchased with U.S. dollars or Deutche marks, and one had to save for years for these prized items. Golden remembered clearly that for his fifth birthday, his daddy told him they would take him to the Western store to buy a Lego. His parents and grandparents had saved from the time he was born, and they had $6 to spend. It would be a small box, and he was told to choose wisely. He chose the Lego farm, and that toy is still a treasure to him today: a reminder of hard times under communism. He told us proudly how he had recently bought his own daughter a Brio farm (her choice) that was in a huge box – and how he still marveled that he could just pay the money and get something so easily for his little girl.

As we walked past the blocks of look-alike buildings, he pointed out the defendability of the housing in case of attack: doors easy to blockade, basement windows and rooftops built for sniper cover, wide roads accessible to tanks, if needed. He also mentioned that every neighborhood had people whose job it was to spy on each other. We talked about how both sides (West and East) feared the other would launch missiles during the Cold War. Mark and I both recalled the bomb drills “duck and cover” when we were in elementary school, and that we weren’t sure if the world would survive long enough for us to grow-up. Golden said it was the same for him and his friends, growing-up under communist Soviet rule. Part of the 4.5-hour tour included a stop at a neighborhood House of Culture. During communist times and still today, these are places where you could take music lessons, play sports, watch films and visit the library. We all ordered coffee or cocoa, while we watched a communist-era propaganda film touting the bright future of Poland and the young people who were building the community and steel mill of Nowa Huta for the good of their country.

Watching the communist propaganda film of Nowa Huta

Another hold-out after the end of communism are the still-thriving, much-loved cafeterias called “Milk Bars” (so named, because they did not serve alcohol). These have always been subsidized by the State, providing low-cost but tasty, filling, nutritious food. As you might imagine, they are still popular, especially with pensioners and college students. Golden told us that this is a place where community is at its best – that often the elderly and the young will mix. An older lady might ask to sit with the college kids, and they’d get to know each other. The young ones might offer to help her with difficult chores, and she may spend her ration of flour and sugar to bake them a cake in return. His own wife befriended a widow whose children live abroad, and she now comes to their home for the holidays.

Milk Bar dinner: delicious! Tomato and rice soup, sausage and potato soup, pirogies, and salads (carrot, cabbage, and beet)

Sunday

Oscar Schindler’s Factory: Museum of Nazi Occupation of Kraków in WWII

On our last day in Krakow, we took the tram out to Oscar Schindler’s factory, which has become a museum on the Nazi Occupation of Krakow during WWII. The amount of information and artifacts, which included many Nazi flags, uniforms, items with swastikas, and information on the erosion of human rights was sobering.

Artifacts from Schindler's office — Artifacts from Schindler’s office

One hopes that humankind has learned from these lessons of history. The documentation of the depression and elimination of the free press, the enforced internment of Jews into a walled ghetto, and their eventual deportation to concentration camps (Auschwitz is nearby) is chilling.

Some of the first steps to controlling the population: eliminate free press, and disallow higher education.

“(…) the entire Polish information system must be liquidated. The people should not possess radio sets; they must be left with newspapers only; opinion press must not be allowed.” – Reich Minister Joseph Goebbels, October 31, 1939

“(…)Your attempts to carry out examinations and to resume the University’s normal operation are an act of malice and hostility towards the Third Reich. Beside that, the Jagiellonian University has always been a centre of anti-German propaganda. Consider yourselves arrested. You shall be taken to a POW camp where you shall be properly informed of your real situation. No questions should be asked. . .” – SS Strumbannführer Bruno Müller

This is the trailer for the Oscar-winning movie, Schindler’s List, if you haven’t seen the movie, you should.

https://youtu.be/M5FpB6qDGAE

A little bit about what we’re doing. . .

(Disclaimer: I am new to blogging on WordPress, so please bear with me as I learn how to design and manage this blog!)

Exactly two months ago, a coworker asked Mark if he’d be interested in working in France for about a year. A quick phone call to me, and it took us about five minutes to decide that this was an opportunity we just couldn’t turn down.

That decision set a lot of gears into motion. In just eight weeks, we needed to get the house ready for our departure, make sure we understood the policies and benefits of JPL work and travel for both Mark and myself, secure appointments with the French consulate in L.A. (not easy, by the way) to obtain work/spouse Long Term Visas, get our medical, dental, and optometry check-ups, arrange for our sweet dog, Amy, to live with Mark’s parents, understand the best way to store our cars (which included a thorough cleaning and rearrangement of the garage (thanks to Molly for her help!), donate some big stuff that had been taking-up a lot of space, and sell Mark’s old convertible.

Oh, and in addition to that, Mark had two trips out to France for work, we attended a family wedding in Seattle, and took Sam on a graduation-celebration trip to our old stomping grounds of Austin, TX (where Mark went to grad school just after we were married).

AND WE GOT IT ALL DONE! WHEW!

We lucked-out and have a wonderful person who will house-sit. The kids are both set for the year, with Molly starting her 3^rd year at Western and Sam working on three internships in Davis. And plans are in the works for both of them to visit us (probably during Molly’s Spring Break).

So, here we are headed to France for almost a year! Well, we are actually coming back home at the end of the month. For an Alaska cruise that we had booked months ago. I know, right?!

This August trip to France is kind of a scouting mission for me, while Mark will be working. The company Mark will be working with primarily, IPGP, is in a suburb just southeast of Paris. Our hotel reservations are right in the heart of Paris. The Hilton Opéra, where Mark has stayed on previous work trips, is close to the Métro and RER station, so it is an easy commute out of the city. We plan to stay there when we return in September as well, until we find an Air BnB apartment. We’re not sure if we want to rent a place right in Paris, or in Saint-Maur des Fosées.