February 12 (19,800 steps)
Bonnie’s flight arrived mid-morning at Aeroport CDG, so after picking her up, we went back to the apartment in Vincennes to drop-off her luggage and freshen-up (about an hour on two trains from point A to point B). Even after the long flight, Bonnie was ready to start sight-seeing. We had a nice lunch at Le Drapeau in Vincennes and then took the Métro into Paris. One of the best things about living in Vincennes, is that it is on the BEST line (#1) for a quick ride into Paris, with stops in some of the best tourist destinations. In twenty minutes, we were gazing at the Louvre’s ancient building with its modern glass pyramid in the courtyard.
Having just arrived, it was a good day to stay out in the fresh air (to stay awake), so we’d visit museums another day. Next stop: the one-hour boat tour on the Seine. Having done this tour several times (Vedettes du Pont Neuf), we know it’s an awesome way to sit and glide past some of the best of Paris.
As we walked back to the Métro from the boat, we took a detour into one of the most famous cathedrals in the world, the French-Gothic Notre Dame. The first structure was begun in the mid-1100s, and it was expanded over the next two-hundred years to be completed in 1345. I am constantly amazed to be here, walking on floors that have held worshippers for over 800 years! The architectural detail, stained glass, and grand scale of the building, in addition to its history, are simply awe-inspiring.
February 13 (15,422 steps)
Monday morning offered us beautiful, clear weather, so we jumped at the chance to visit the Eiffel Tower. We wanted to go to the summit, and with all of the foggy, overcast weeks we’d had here, we needed to take advantage of the sun! It seemed that everyone else had the same idea, so there was quite a bit of standing in line (getting through the first security checkpoint, the ticket line, secondary security, and the line to the elevator), but it is winter – I’ve seen much worse! The Eiffel Tower (built for the 1889 World’s Fair) has three levels, all of which can be accessed by three stages of elevators (or if you’re really into stairs, you can save some dough and climb the first two levels, taking a lift to the final stage). The first two levels are quite large, and have gift shops, snack bars and even a ritzy restaurant (which requires reservations well in advance). The summit is 906 feet above the ground, which affords you an amazing, often windy view of the city. At the top, you can buy a glass of champagne, take a peek into Gustav Eiffel’s small apartment, or even use the restroom!
After a quick snack on the Tower, we opted for another stunning view of Paris, at the upscale department store, Printemps (in the 9th Arrondissement). On the 9th floor of the Beauty and Home store, there is a cafeteria-style restaurant with an outdoor rooftop terrace. This spot, in the center of the Right Bank of Paris, has a more intimate view of the city. You’re just above the rooftops, where you see the detail of the Haussmann buildings, busy streets, and have a 360-degree view of almost every monument in Paris, including Eiffel Tower, Grand Palais, Arc de Triomphe, Sacré Cœur, and Opéra Garnier. (note: We were told that this terrace would soon be closed for rennovations for the next two years.)
As the sunset began to fade, we had one more view to take-in before heading back to the apartment. Every night after sunset, the Eiffel Tower is illuminated. Beautiful as that is, it is truly spectacular at the top of the hour when the bulbs flicker on-and-off, making the tower sparkle. It never gets old, seeing the light show! Here’s a quick clip I posted to YouTube. Just click this link:
February 14 (24,592 steps)
Mark had an appointment in Paris this morning, and was able to join us for breakfast, so the three of us started our Valentine’s Day in the sweetest way: a breakfast of café au lait and pastries from Blé Sucré (in the 12th Arrondissement).
Tummies full, Mark headed to work, and Bonnie and I took the Métro to Opéra Garnier (built 1861-1875) for a self-guided tour. Probably the most famous opera house in the world, the building was the inspiration for the setting of Phantom of the Opera. It has just under 2,000 seats (red-velvet, of course), and its Second Empire and Beaux-Arts design is over-the-top. The staircase and halls are decorated with sculptures, paintings, a full library of opera music, set designs in miniature and a handful of costumes from some of the performances which have taken place here.
The balance of the day included lunch under the glass-domed cupola at Printemps Brasserie, a walk through the tree-lined Parc Monceau, and a quick view of the outdoor sculpture/fountain near Centre Pompidou, before taking the Métro back to the apartment for a pre-dinner rest. Arriving at the apartment, we were so surprised to see that Mark had been there during his lunch, and had left us both flowers, Valentine’s treats from the patisserie, and a little gift! That evening, we met in Paris for dinner with Mark at our favorite falafel place, L’as du Fallafel, in Le Marais.
February 15 (17,682 steps)
This was a museum day, with Impressionism being foremost on our minds, as we visited L’Orangerie in the morning, followed by lunch and more art at Musée d’Orsay in the afternoon. These are my two favorite art museums in Paris, and I’ll never get tired of looking at their collections. I see something new every time I visit.
February 16 (18,956 steps)
Today was a trip out to the Château de Versailles, the royal palace made most grand by King Louis XIV (AKA The Sun King), and final home to his grandson, King Louis XVI and wife Marie Antoinette. I’d been here a few times, and was excited to share it with Bonnie. We had enough time (and the weather cooperated nicely) to see the main Château, plus Marie Antoinette’s Petit Trianon, her Hameau (Hamlett).
Tip: when visiting Versailles, pay extra (€2 currently) to visit all buildings on the grounds, AND pay for the petit train (€7 to take you out and back) to the sites. The Grand and Petit Trianon (the smaller châteaux used to “get away from it all” by King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette), as well as Marie’s Hameau, are just too far to walk (it takes too much time out of the day/visit).
February 17 (18,293 steps)
The Louvre was originally built in the 12th century as a fortress (some of its structure can be viewed from inside the museum). It was expanded over the centuries to become the enormous palace, which today is the world’s 2nd most visited museum (after one in China). It has been a museum since 1793, and has a collection of over 35,000 objects (thanks, Wikipedia!). We spent the morning perusing a small portion of the Louvre, and enjoyed a quick lunch at the Le Café Mollien, which is by the stairs at the end the Louvre’s French Paintings wing and has gorgeous views out to the garden/pyramide.
Tip: Le Café Mollien is kind of out of the way, unlike many of the other Louvre eateries. We had no trouble finding a table, and even though the food (sandwiches, desserts, etc., was already prepared, it was quite good).
After lunch, Bonnie and I walked over to Sainte-Chapelle (on Ile de la Cité, just down the street from Notre Dame). The best time to see this chapel, which is basically a framework for stunning stained-glass, is the daytime. Sunshine streaming through the stained-glass will take your breath away – I guarantee!
Our final destination for the day was a meetup with my friend, Melissa, at a Starbucks on the Champs-Élysées. We took the métro to the neighborhood which is famous for its upscale (and some not-so-upscale) shopping, as well as its constant crowds of tourists. I wanted Bonnie and Melissa to meet, as she has become a dear friend since we met shortly after our arrival here in France. Melissa is from Florida, and her husband, Olivier, is French. They both enjoy board games, and we met at a board game night in a café in Paris! It was fun for the two to get to know each other over coffee, and Melissa offered to be our photographer at the Arc de Triomphe, before we all called it a night.
February 18 (22,497 steps)
Mark had to work today (even though it is Saturday), so Bonnie and I headed to one of the places she told ME about, Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen (Paris Flea Market) north of the city at Saint-Ouen. Melissa and Olivier joined us on our field-trip, and it was fascinating to wander among everything from fine French antiques to furniture, knick knacks, and parts of old buildings (faucets, window frames, zinc bartops, etc.). Bonnie found a pretty little oil painting, which she bought from the artist, as well as a cute yellow teapot.
After the flea market, Bonnie and I took the métro to Montmartre and avoided the extra stairs with a funicular (only one métro ticket) up to visit La Basilique du Sacré Cœur, and get yet another gorgeous view of Paris. Rounding-out our day, we met Mark in Vincennes, for dinner at our favorite Thai restaurant, Tamarin.
February 19 (19,983 steps)
Today was Sunday, so Mark could join-in the fun! We started-off with the American-style diner, Breakfast in America, where we gorged ourselves on eggs, bacon, pancakes and bottomless cups of legit, American coffee.
Post-brunch, we walked around the Latin Quarter (5th Arrondissement), which includes the lovely Jardin du Luxembourg, La Sorbonne, and Saint-Sulpice cathedral.
For an additional treat, we headed back to the 1st Arrondissement for Angelina’s famous chocolat chaud and pastries (more than just hot cocoa – this stuff is thick and rich: think drinking chocolate!). I don’t remember, but if memory serves, we elected to skip dinner this night!
February 20 (9,762 steps)
As they say, “All good things must end.” Bonnie’s visit was up, and this morning was a trip back to the airport. What a fun time we had, having Bonnie visit! Who knew, back when we met at Houston Middle School, in Acampo, CA, that 39 years later, we would wander the streets of Paris together?
