I was so excited to visit Berlin! From the time I was in Mr. Lindberger’s German I class at Lodi High School (1981), I’d been interested in the city. Another of our high school German teachers, Frau Duberry, would take a group of students on a study abroad trip to Germany every few years. I wasn’t able to go, but it was so fascinating to hear Frau Duberry and Herr Lindberger describe Berlin’s division into two very different cities after WWII by the Berlin Wall.
Following the partition of Berlin after WWII, East Germany was facing massive defection and emigration to the West. To prevent further loss of its citizens, the Soviets built the wall around West Berlin in 1961, and Berliners were separated from family and friends overnight. Once the barriers had been erected, very few East Berliners were able to escape to the West. Though it was possible for Westerners to visit the eastern part of the city, it was quite difficult to pass through checkpoints.
This is the text from a museum display, which I found useful to understand how The Berlin Wall came to be:
“After the war (WWII), the SED, the ruling party, with the help of the Soviet occupying forces, began establishing a dictatorship, first in the Soviet zone of occupation and as of 1949 in the GDR (East Germany). Large parts of the East German population, however, did not agree with the new political and economic system. In contrast, the Federal Republic (West Germany) and West Berlin, with their offer of freedom, prosperity and modernity, were very appealing. Consequently, a mass migration to the West began in the late forties that by the fifties had reached dramatic proportions. By August 1961 the GDR had lost a sixth of its population.
By 1952 the SED had almost completely closed off its border to the Federal Republic to GDR citizens. Travel to the western part of Germany required approval. Moving to the West without permission was considered an illegal “flight from the republic” and prosecuted by law. When the fortifications at the inner-German border were expanded, it became increasingly dangerous to flee directly to West Germany. Hence many people went across the open sector borders into West Berlin.
On August 13, 1961, the SED began erecting barbed wire and walls to seal off the border all around West Berlin. It was hoped that this would end the growing mass migration to the West once and for all. The SED also wanted to stabilize its power over the people in the GDR and to demonstrate sovereignty to the world. But the barbed wire and walls were unable to completely stop the escape attempts. Therefore, the border barriers in Berlin were continually expanded and reinforced.”
After 28 years of oppression, The Iron Curtain began to weaken during the Soviet era of Gorbachev and glasnost. Shortly after President Regan beseeched “Mr. Gorbachev, tear down this wall…”, the wall did come down peacefully – almost as quickly as it went up, on November 9, 1989.
Third Reich/East Berlin Walking Tour with Original Berlin Walks
We experienced another great, informative walking tour during our weekend in Berlin. Our guide, Matti, who was raised in Berlin, was so interesting and a font of knowledge on the city’s history. His parents were East Berliners who were born before The Wall was erected. Trapped in East Berlin as young adults, they married and started their family in the shadow of The Wall, and rejoiced when it fell.
In East Berlin, it was not allowed to be called “The Wall.” Instead, it was called the “Anti-Fascist Protective Barrier” – marketing spin to make it sound like it was keeping fascists out, rather than imprisoning its own citizens. The Wall is still preserved in some stretches, and is a constant reminder to what people can do to others in the name of power.
We walked past one area where the Berlin Wall has been painted and tagged by artists (and vandals). Most of the art is the individual artist’s expression supporting the ideals of freedom, peace, free-speech, and civil rights.
There is another part of The Wall which has been preserved much as it was during the Cold War. Here, you can see the layers of protection – the tall guard towers, an interior wall, the open, sandy area which prevented anyone from hiding, and the final, taller wall which separated East from West. Over the years, people tried desperately to escape, and many did not get out alive. They tried just about every method possible to get into West Berlin, including hot air balloons, hidden compartments in cars, digging underground tunnels. From its raising in 1961 until it fell in 1989, it is estimated that almost 200 people died trying to cross from East to West.
The Wall was built alongside apartment buildings, sometimes through buildings, and even in the underground train stations. The few underground stations that still had train service were blocked-off to East Berlin residents and were heavily-guarded. Called Ghost Stations, no one was allowed to enter or exit – these trains were just passing-through. East German guards were stationed inside cells within the Ghost Stations, there was always more than one guard at a time, as they had to watch each other, to be sure the guards themselves did not escape the East.
This is the building where people who visited from the West would have to pass inspection and questioning on the way out of the East. Matti told us its name came from the tears shed as loved ones said goodbye before entering the building. He also told us about the approximately 200 people who suffered heart attacks or strokes inside the building, as the questioning was so stressful. This is what I remember of the process:
Upon entering East Berlin, West Germans were required to exchange Western currency for Eastern marks. The exchange rate was a joke, as East German Marks were basically worthless – this was their way to make sure the more valuable Western Marks were kept in the East. When they left, the Westerners were questioned in small, windowless booths inside the Palace of Tears: who did they visit, what did they buy, how much did they spend? . . . All of the money had to be accounted for, as they were not allowed to leave with any of the money they’d exchanged. Even though Westerners had the right to leave, it was so stressful that some people actually had heart attacks during the questioning. There was always the chance that one could be accused of wrongdoing, and detained in the East.
Modern Memorials to Victims of WWII
The modern Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, opened in 2005, is truly dramatic. Filling the space of a large, open square, it is a series of concrete blocks of varying size, which invites visitors to walk between and (almost) get lost among the taller blocks. Designed by architect Peter Eisenman and engineer Buro Happold, the structures were intended to encourage each person to have their own experience and interpretation of the design as it memorializes the millions of Jewish victims of WWII.
Another moving, modern memorial is the 2008 Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted Under Nazism. Designed by artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset, this concrete cube sits among trees and flowers at the edge of Berlin’s large Tiergarten (a large, central park). In the window, one can view a video loop of men kissing. Originally, the video was limited to men kissing, because there is only clear documentation of gay men being persecuted by Nazis. After some discussion, it was decided that the video be changed every two years to include women kissing as well.
This large metal profile of Georg Elser, by Ulrich Klages, sits on Wilhelmstraße. Elser is remembered for his brave attempt to assassinate Adolf Hitler. In 1939, Georg Elser carried-out plans to set-off explosives during a speech Hitler was to make. The bomb went-off just as planned, however, Hitler had left the venue unexpectedly early, thereby missing the explosion. Eight people were killed and more than 60 injured, but Hitler was unfortunately spared.
Modern Berlin
Today, Berlin is a really cool, young, vibrant, cosmopolitan city. One can visit museums, war monuments, the Bundestag (its building is called the Reichstag, where the German Parliament meets), gardens and parks, churches and monuments (some heavily-damaged during WWII). There are tons of great restaurants and places to shop. In addition to all of the local eateries, it was a fun surprise to see Dunkin Donuts — a treat from the U.S. (and a truly LARGE cup of coffee)!
We were able to get tickets online to visit the Reichstag. This historic building is popular with tourists, so get your tickets early if you’re visiting during the summer months! The Reichstag has transformed since German Reunification. Its 19th Century structure now has a glass dome, and visitors can actually see down into the floor of the Parliament to watch government in action. The symbolism of the glass as transparency and openness of government to its people is strong, highlighting Germany’s clear break from it’s difficult past.
Berlin’s famous department store: KaDeWe
Much like Harrod’s in London, Berlin’s KaDeWe Department Store (pronounced “kah-day-vay”) is worth a stop – even for me, a non-shopper. Where else can one buy a collector’s item Steiff stuffed animal, a beautiful assortment of charcuterie and cheeses, AND a pickle in a can? You name it, they’ve probably got it at KaDeWe.
German Food
I probably should have had a feature on food in each city we visited, since it is always a highlight for Mark and I to try the local cuisine wherever we go. German food is often hearty, with plenty of meat (sometimes breaded and fried, as in wiener schnitzel, sometimes beautifully roasted). They don’t shy away from carbs (and why should you, in moderation?). Späetzle (little noodles), knödel (large, round, boiled dumplings), or potatoes of various preparation are usually among the side dishes, and their breads (especially those with seeds) are delicious. Of course, there are plenty of healthy choices, both traditional and contemporary, but these were some of our favorites. . .
